By Natalie R. Toney, M.F.A., C.H.,
Healthy Planet Food Editor
As I enjoy my remaining fresh blackberries and peaches from the orchard, a sweltering heat wave has landed here in St.Louis. Wrapped in this current shroud of humidity, it’s almost inconceivable to think of apple picking season with pumpkins nestled among bales of hay. Yet in mere weeks, leaves will begin revealing hints of color, giving a sneak peek as to what’s on the horizon.
Summer certainly has its appeal, though I wholeheartedly welcome and relish Autumn, with all she has to offer. One of those many offerings being apples, one of my favorite ingredients to work with throughout the season-not that it’s any surprise given they often make a recurring appearance in my recipes! I thought this month it would be good to get back to basics with homemade applesauce. It’s prebiotic, full of phytochemicals and fiber even more so leaving the peelings on),vitamins and minerals, and generally doesn’t require any added sweetener depending on the variety used(I like mine a tad more tart, so I use green with some reds and pinks for sweetness, and a little yellow to meld them).Making applesauce from scratch is relatively easy, doesn’t require any fancy equipment, and can be as sweet, savory, or spicy as you wish. For those who would like to make apple butter, there are directions in “Tips”, and if apples aren’t your thing or you want to try something different, pears can be substituted in either recipe. Now I think applesauce is pretty great any time of year, but it’s at peak perfection in Fall. Apples are in season, readily available, reasonably priced, colorful and more fragrant. On the warmer Autumn days, applesauce is a healthy, refreshing pick-me-up to cool down with, and just as delicious heated on those brisk evenings. A dollop or two can spruce up entrees or sides, while also excellent on its own to pack in lunches for school, work, picnics, and trips. I often use applesauce as a substitute for, or to cut a bit of the oil when baking, and with the holidays just around the corner it’s one of my “must haves” in the kitchen! Speaking of holidays, canning ahead for yourself or gifts (makes a wonderful hostess gift when presented in a decorative, reusable jar-especially at cookie exchanges since there is already an abundance of baked goods), extends the shelf life to a year and a half, unopened.
Chock full of cinnamon and clove, a dash of cayenne for kick, or sans any spice at all, apples simmering on the stove welcome all with the aroma of the season. Whether sweet or tart-or a bit of both-savoring homemade applesauce is one of the simple pleasures that makes Autumn absolutely awesome.
Tips: For a more complex flavor, use more than one variety of apple. Red and pink apples are sweeter, golden and yellow are softer and milder, green are harder and tart. Cut into 1”-2” chunks depending on desired texture of sauce. If making a chunkier applesauce, it’s best to remove peels prior, or let them loosen while simmering and strain out the tougher ones before blending. A food mill works wonders also. For a very smooth consistency, mix with an immersion blender, or mixer (otherwise, a masher is fine). Can use a bit of brown sugar or maple syrup (add to taste) if additional sweetness if needed. Ginger, cardamom, clove, nutmeg, allspice, vanilla, orange zest, star anise, and even cayenne or ancho really open up and complement the flavor profile of apple as well. Adding a cinnamon stick to the pot while boiling and simmering imparts a fuller, more robust taste than ground (remove before blending). Lemon juice keeps the applesauce bright and fresh. To make apple butter on the stovetop, put chopped apples in a pot with water or apple cider, stir with 1 C. brown sugar or maple syrup and chosen spices, bring to boil at med-high, then reduce to low. Cover, stir occasionally for about 2 hrs. Mash, and puree apple mixture, add 1-2 tsp. vanilla, and cook on low-med with lid ajar for about another hour until reaching a dark amber (careful not to scorch!).
Ingredients:
- 12 Apples, peeled or unpeeled, cored and cut into chunks (use a variety of at least 2 or 3 kinds)
- 1 1/2 C. Water
- 1-2 Tbsp. Lemon juice (approx.1 med-lg lemon juiced) depending on type of apples- if using some tart apples,1-1/2 Tbsp.is good, if using all sweet and softer varieties then use 2 Tbsp.
- Two dashes Kosher or Sea salt
- 1-2 teas.(or more) Cinnamon, plus any other spices if desired.
Directions:
Put apples in a stock pot (or Dutch oven), add water, salt, cinnamon, and any other spices. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, cover (leaving just enough room for steam to get through). Continue to simmer for about 30 min. or until apple pieces are soft enough to mash. Add lemon juice, and mash with a wooden spoon or potato masher (or immersion blender) until consistency is reached. Transfer to a bowl, or container. Can serve warm, or chilled. Will keep for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator, and 6-8 mos.in freezer. Yields approx.14-16 servings.